Monday, June 13, 2011

Hike and Weather

Last weekend my wife attended an all day belly dance class (taught by the lady in pink).  This gave me the opportunity to go on a long hike.  I decided to walk to the top of Devil's peak.  This 3000 ft peak stares me in the face every morning when I walk to work and figured it would be a good time to make an attempt.  
I started around 9 a.m. and headed to the Newlands forest since I saw a map showing a trail to the peak.  Two hours in I realized that this was a mistake.  There are many official and unofficial trails in the forest and I couldn't find the right trail.  I gave up on this route when I ran into two shady looking individuals who gave me the heebie-jeebies.  I decided to trust my instincts and cross over to the north side of Devil's Peak which overlooks the city bowl.
Taken from Signal Hill on a different day

After wasting these two hours I easily made it to "King's Block House", and then the fog started rolling in from the north.  I could hear traffic below me but couldn't see the city bowl.  I kept going up until I couldn't see more than 20 ft in front of me. Alas I decided to abort the mission for another day.  I didn't want to become another story about a tourist having to be rescued on Table Mountain.  Below are a few of the pictures I could take on the walk back.


Heading back towards the Southern Suburbs
I turned back when the visibility was worse than this.

Above the fog looking down towards the city bowl
Overlooking Mowbray, and Rondebosch.  I should have filmed the clouds.  The low lying clouds were traveling south and the higher clouds were blowing north.


Other than this hike, my life has been pretty boring.  I have been settling into my life as an academic and I must say that it is a little painful.  Most of my days are monotonous.  I get up, walk the quarter mile up my hill to work, I stay there for several hours, walk home, make dinner, watch videos, go to sleep, and repeat.  Nothing worth blogging about, which should explain my lack of posts over the last month. 

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Newlands Forest

Went on a 8.5 km run this morning (according to my phone's GPS which sucks).  I started around UCT and ran up to Rhodes Memorial, followed a trail south and ran into Newlands Forest (map of trails below). 
Fell in love with all the trails and thoroughly enjoyed the mist which persisted all morning (see picture below).  I saw all kinds of dogs on these trails and had a moment of inspiration.  When I came home I convinced my wife that we should go later and take the dogs. 


I was so excited that when packing up the dogs and the gear we took I had a little SNAFU (an acronym I learned in the military which stands for, Situation Normal All F&**#$d Up).  After I made sure the girls (Etta and Reeses) were in the car I closed the door with the keys inside.  I didn't know that the car we are using automatically locks the doors if it detects the keys are inside the cabin.  I don't understand why this design option is useful.   After the SNAFU was fixed by the owner of the vehicle we were off on our first adventure as a family.  I was so proud of Etta our big (~10 year old 50 kilograms rottweiler bernese mountain dog mix).  We walked a long way and she didn't complain one bit.  We also experimented with having both of them off the leash and they performed well.  I was proud of them.  Below is a picture of Reeses on a tree stump.  We tried to take a picture of Etta with a foot long drool but didn't quite get it. Be sure to check my wife's blog for her take on how the day went.  I'm sure she will have a different perceptive. 

Recon

Over a week ago, a friend showed us a flat they are moving out of. I really like the kitchen and bath, and I think we can afford to live there. The only problem is that the place is a few neighborhoods away from work and I really like to walk or bike. A friend told me about a trail which goes most of the way so I decided to check it out. The Google Maps video below (sorry you have to download the Google Earth plugin)roughly follows the run. Parts of the run were really nice, going through the edge of the Newlands Forest and other parts followed the sidewalk next to a busy street. I think that it would be a doable commute, but not on a daily basis. Too bad the whole way isn't bike friendly. If more of the way was like the trail close to UCT, I definitely would be hounding my wife about moving there. Unfortunately I would have to deal with traffic.

Sunday, May 1, 2011

5/1/2011

Woke up pretty sore this morning.  Ran a nice flat 4.5 mile run, taking two laps around Rondebosch Common at an easy 10 minute mile pace.  This is a 100 acre park in the middle of Rondebosch and provides a wonderful view of UCT. Took the picture with my iPhone, so the quality isn't great.  I also saw a large flock of some kind of bird.  To me, they resemble a female wild turkey.  After a month of not running much, my hip flexor is starting to feel better when running.  I hope this continues as I start adding mileage again.   





For review of a recent trip my wife and I took to Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope, see my wife's blog.

Friday, April 29, 2011

4/29/2011

Dissertation- Turned in my final-ish copy of my dissertation today, and hoping the format nazis overlook any minor mistakes.  I am so ready to be done with this thing and I hope I never look at it again.  Unless I am working on an actual paper coming from it for publication.  

Running-  I didn't know if I would have time for running today so instead of riding a bus or taking a cab to a meeting with a collaborator at his office, I ran there.  Two miles in less than thirty minutes, wearing jeans, a button up shirt, and carrying my backpack.  The cab drivers going up Main road towards downtown couldn't help but stop and make sure I didn't want a ride.  I still can't help but admire how hard these guys work(described in an earlier post), of course I declined. 

Taste of America-After the meeting, my wife picked me up.  On the turn out of his office, there is a McDonalds, we both noticed it, and for some reason we both had a craving.  Since we've been here we haven't eaten much fast food and haven't stepped into a Mc and Donalds, as my little niece calls them, since we took her to one back in late January or early February.  I had a Big Mac meal and my wife had chicken nuggets and fries. I was surprised at how similar the products are even here in Africa.  Everything from the marketing, to the silly uniforms, to the taste of the food.  This was the first place we have been to which actually provides real ketchup with the fries.  Most places provide tomato sauce which is an awful imitation of ketchup.  The only difference I saw was the accent of the underpaid worker.  My wife did notice that the nuggets were "smokier" and barbecue sauce was different and didn't like it.  Personally, I didn't think they were smokier.  I did get into some trouble, she wanted to taste the hamburger but I ate it all even though she told me she wanted to taste the secret sauce.  Apparently I'm a pig and don't listen.   

Thursday, April 28, 2011

April 28th

No work out today.  I'm very sore from the many lunges I did two days ago and the run I did yesterday.  Besides that, I've been working virtually nonstop since 3 a.m. this morning on the final revisions to my dissertation.  I think I should say semi-final revisions since I will probably be rejected, not by my committee, but by the graduate college at least once for formatting errors.  Oh yeah, my adviser approved my revisions today.  Wish I could celebrate this but can't since revisions need to be turned in to the graduate college by Monday.  Wish I could be done already.  Anyhow, these are the joys of being an academic. 

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Today's Run

Today was a holiday called "Freedom Day" here in South Africa.  I still went to work but observed the holiday by taking a break and going on a run around campus.  I think I might start posting some of the routes using a web/smart phone based program I use called MapMyFITNESS.  Figure 1 provides a neat fly over of the route I took.  If you play Figure 1, I started my run at UCT and ran to a monument called Rhodes Memorial.  From there I took a trail down a ravine.  In figure two you should see a decrease in elevation.  This decrease in elevation is me running down that ravine.  Once I was done with that descent, I headed north towards the city bowl.   At around mile 1 there is a clearing to the right where I saw some zebras.  Once I reached the top of the next ascent I could see the bay and the Eastern portion of the city bowl.  I then started my return to UCT by heading back towards Rhodes Memorial and finally back to UCT.  The run was a bit challenging due to the steep inclines.  As you can see in Figure 3, my heart rate was high despite my 13 minute per mile pace.   

Figure 1.  Map of the route.



I'm also going to include the results of my heart rate monitor and elevation/climb information from the MapMyFitness website.
Figure 2.  Changes in elevation.

Figure 3.  Heart rate data.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Mexican Food

My wife and I finally broke down and started making Mexican food from scratch. We can't buy decent pre-made tortillas or canned refried beans or anything like that so we literally have to make everything from scratch.  Kind of cool.  For our meal yesterday we made our own tortillas, salsa bandera, chile rojo con carne.  Before you know it we will be making posole, menudo, and tamales.  To see a complete post with pictures see the following link to my wife's blog.  She has a little more time than me.

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Top five things to think about, ask yourself, or investigate before you decide to move to Cape Town.

     Most of these things to consider are related maintaining the quality of life you enjoyed in your homeland.  Before we moved here my wife made it a point to read expat forums and travel blogs.  I got the impressions that there were two types of commentaries.  The first type came from people who obviously loved Cape Town and for the most part only had nice things to say.  The other type only focused on the negative and tried to convince you that if you came to Cape Town you would most likely be robbed, raped, and then murdered.  I’m not really in either camp, I think Cape Town is beautiful and has much to offer but am not so in love with it that I will ignore the negative parts.  

    1. Can you really afford to live in Cape Town?  

Simply converting the salary from Rand to American Dollars, British pounds, or Euros or whatever your currency you’re used to is not enough.  Even though you can buy R 6.65 with $1.00 American dollar, that doesn’t mean that R 6.65 will buy you $ 1.00 dollars’ worth of goods.  When it comes to food or wine, I would say the R 6.65 would go farther than the dollar you’re used to.  When it comes to almost anything else it will not go as far.  Evaluating cost of living is tricky for many reasons.  Before the move, I partially relied on the cost of living page provided by my university’s human resources webpage.  These are the figures they give for rental prices for middle income housing in Cape Town.
Renting a house/flat
3-bedroom flat (unfurnished) - R5 000 upwards
4-bedroom house with pool - R6 000 upwards
3-bedroom townhouse - R4 000 upwards
    
     Although we have found housing close to these prices, there were times when we went to visit those houses and we just kept on driving.  We would call the person to tell them that we were not interested.  The reason for this drive by is that I wouldn’t have felt safe unless I had a squad of my Army Ranger buddies with a combat load accompanying me.  Most housing which we found to our liking is either beyond our means, even on a lecturer’s salary which would go very far elsewhere, or would take an unsatisfactory commute on the parking lot which is Cape Town’s road system during peak hours.  Personally I like walking to work; it’s good for my health, my wallet, and the environment.  In order to walk here I will have to relinquish well over half my paycheck once I’m kicked out of temporary staff housing.  Other things related to this question deals with how much everyday things cost.  Things produced in this country seem reasonably priced; anything originating elsewhere is amazingly overpriced ranging anywhere between thirty and one hundred percent higher prices than what I paid in Tucson.  There are also all kinds of hidden costs we are just finding out about.  For example, did you know that there is a television tax you must buy if you are in possession of a television, even if it is broken and gathering dust in a closet?  WTF? 

    2. What kind of Visa will you have and what will that mean to you and your family?
    
     Even though the job I took in Cape Town is a permanent position, I moved to Cape Town on a 3 year special skills visa.  Although this type of Visa allows me to work, it does limit what I can do in this country in ways I didn’t anticipate.   I don’t have personal wealth to speak of, so I am relying on my salary to live in South Africa; therefore any significant purchase requires a loan. Although a friend was nice enough to lend us a car for now, I really don’t want to abuse this kindness.   For the last few weeks my wife and I have started looking for a car.  We thought we would use the money we got when we sold our cars in the U.S. as a down payment on a car we couldn’t afford when I was in graduate school.  After all, I now have a “real” job with a “real” income.  It turns out that we will probably end up buying an older crappier car than the ones we drove in Tucson, even though back then I was bringing home a teaching assistant salary.  There are two reasons for this, first, cars are expensive here, and second, I can’t get a normal car loan here.  Well I guess I could but I would have to finish paying it off three months before my visa expires.  This short time frame and relatively high interest rates in this country combine to make unaffordable monthly payments.   The other option was to take a personal loan from the bank.  They would lend me three times my monthly take home pay, have the same timeframe I just described, and charge something comparable to high credit card interest rates.  This still leaves me with unaffordable payments.   I don’t know what we are going to do.  I think I might start bringing this up to my superiors at work.   

    3. Do you want to ship or do you want to buy household goods?
   
     My suggestion is that if your employer is paying for the shipment, send everything you might want.  For example, I regret not shipping my grill.  My wife suggested I call it a braai since that is the local word for it, but I don’t care, I’m calling it a grill because I’m in a sour mood today and not totally in love with everything South Africa at the moment.  This mood is partially due to the gloomy weather and experiences I had this last week trying to get a loan.  Anyways, I ended up giving my old one to my sister, thinking I would buy one when I get here.  Grilling is one of my favorite ways to cook and mine was getting old and I could use a new one.  I have been here for over two months and have resigned myself to the idea of not having a decent grill any time soon.  The affordable ones are made very cheaply and the only other option is the extremely expensive six burner, brushed stainless steel variety I couldn’t afford in Tucson much less the inflated prices found in Cape Town.  If your employer is not paying for shipment, you still might consider shipping some of your more expensive items. 

    4. Public transportation
    
     For those of you thinking that some of the problems I mentioned so far can be solved with public transportation there are things to consider.  Of course there are trains, and buses which are available but they aren’t up to par with the major cities I’ve been to like New York, San Francisco, or Vienna.  The public transportation here isn’t as reliable, comfortable, and I’m pretty sure not as safe.  I have the impression that the infrastructure is overburdened and not well thought out.  My wife and I had to rely on public transportation for a few weeks and can’t imagine having to rely on it long term I’ve heard stories from colleagues who have waited for hours for a bus, only to find out that the next one is already full and cannot take any more passengers.  Another option, I described on a previous post, was riding the minibus cabs (I’m not sure what their official name is).  We rode them for a few weeks and they were fun for a while, but they would not replace a car.  We couldn’t find a map describing their routes and didn’t know where they went.  We were confined to one or two routes and life sucked.  We tried the trains, and we found the wait times between trains surprisingly long for a major city.  Once we got on the train it was overcrowded and I felt very unsafe. More than once I felt like someone was trying to pick my pocket and I didn’t like the looks I was getting from people.  

    5. Security and Crime?

Security is a big concern here.  I don’t want to scare people off with this; I think it is manageable but still something to consider.  The first thing I noticed when I came to interview was the bars on my windows and the concertina wire  placed on top of the fence surrounding the bed and breakfast the university placed me in.   I have now been here for over two months and I still feel like security is a major concern.  For example, I used to dislike when my wife would call me at work back home in Tucson. Mostly because I HATE talking on the phone and I didn’t like the distraction.  Here, I ask my wife to call me when she goes anywhere.  I want to know where she is going and I ask her to give me updates when she is coming home and when she is home safe.   Although this probably will not prevent anything from happening to her, it gives me some piece of mind when I know she is home and safe.  As for crime, everyone I’ve talked to on the subject has had some personal experience dealing with being burglarized, held up at knife point, or threatened with bodily injury.  For example, one man described an incident where a man was panhandling and when he didn’t have anything to give him he became very aggressive and pleaded with him to not make him do crime.  Luckily the person escaped into a public place before he was robbed, beaten, or killed.    Thankfully we haven’t experienced any of this.  I truly hope this is not only due to dumb luck but due to something we can control.  Some personal attributes such as our careful behavior or my physically intimidating physique (lol).   


If you want to see my wife's point of view, not necessarily on these topics, you can read her blog.

Monday, March 28, 2011

Car Buying Woes

Buying a car here with a loan is going to be harder than I thought.  According to the bank, we have to have a South African drivers license.  We talked to a guy at a dealership and he said that obtaining that license might prove to be a bridge to far.  The daunting mission would take a day or more waiting in lines followed by a several month wait for the actual license.  I'm going to have to do some more research and find out if this is true.  Another option is to get an international driver's license, but my bank didn't say if that would suffice. 

Another hurdle is my three year Visa; our loan terms can not be longer than my Visa.  Since I have already been here a few months, I might be stuck with a 24 month loan.  I might not be able to afford a decent car that is less than five years old with loan terms that are this short.  Car prices, even used car prices, in South Africa are just silly.  For example, we saw a used Jeep Wrangler Sport at the Jeep Dealership in Claremont which sold today.  It was a four banger soft top bare bones Jeep, it was not a Rubicon, and it went for the equivalent of $43,000 used.  I'm feeling like the traditional financing option is not going to work and I'm feeling OK with that.  The last and only time I ever financed a vehicle it made me feel dirty and used.  I felt like I was getting screwed from every direction and swore I would never do that again.

Another option mentioned by my bank was to get a personal loan.  My bank will lend me three times my monthly gross pay.  This might turn out to be the best option and save me money for several reasons. With this type of loan I don't need a South African driver's license, I can buy the car from a private seller, and it can be older than five years old.   I may be able to avoid a 14% Value Added Tax (VAT) on a private sale.  I might also be able to afford a decent vehicle if it over five years old. The only setback with this loan is that I can't get one until my account is three months old.  This will make it impossible to buy the Defender 110 I mentioned in the previous post, since it will probably be sold today.  Another guy came with cash in hand.  I guess I will be keeping my eyes out for similar deals and hope the interest rate on this type of loan is decent.

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Western Cape Getaway Show

Yesterday, we went to a trade show held at a wine estate.  For an off-road enthusiast like myself, the equipment being shown outside the large tents was by far the best part.  I especially enjoyed the neat little tent trailers.  My guess is that since the geezers who can afford toys in South Africa can't buy a Ford F-350 to haul a fifth wheel they invest in these little trailers that can be pulled by a Ford Ranger. Here these little trucks are considered a large bakkie (truck).  They use them in every role a full size truck would be used back home.  Everything from serving as a tow truck to a dump truck.  The trailers seem rugged yet refined and well designed.  Everything you will need for a luxury outing in your 4X4 has been thought of.  They even have places to store your wine glasses.  I definitely want to buy one of these trailers and take one back to Arizona when we decide to move back.

I even started looking at off-road vehicles again.  I currently have my sights set on a Defender 110 which is kitted out for a Cape Town to Cairo trip.  An American came down, bought his Land Rover got it ready for the trip and decided not to go.  I think recent events in Egypt might have played a role.  He is asking R 95 000 (~13,000).  For this I would have room for four or five, a roof top tent, freezer, refrigerator, roof rack, two jerry cans, bull bar, kitchen, a newly overhauled diesel engine, and a power inverter with enough wattage to power a television (why would I need a television?).  If I can get a car loan for a private party sale, I just might buy it. Pictures of this vehicle can be seen at the following link.  I'm also looking for Jeep Wranglers, I really treated my last one horribly and it refused to die.  Now that they come in a four door version, my wife is even open to the idea.  I'm also intrigued with the diesel engine option we can get over here.  I always wanted to do an engine conversion on my old jeep, and diesel was one of the options I was thinking about.  The only problem with the Jeep idea is that I can't find a used one which is reasonably priced.  I guess the brand name adds a few extra thousand Rand.

Thursday, March 24, 2011

It's Been Some Time

I know that I haven't written anything in awhile.  My wife is so much better at keeping up with her blog at withoutcomplexities.blogspot.com.  I actually haven't done much I would consider interesting.  Mostly getting up going to work and coming home, mostly writing grants and acclimating to the university.  We have only been on two real day trips.  The first we went on a drive across False Bay and visited one of the two African Penguin colonies on South Africa's mainland.  On the second trip we went to a restaurant called the Brass Bell (http://www.brassbell.co.za/) in Kalk Bay.  The food was good, I especially enjoyed the calamari (best I've ever eaten).  Unfortunately the mood was soured when we were forced to wait an inordinate amount of time to pay for our bill.  We cheered ourselves up by going to the Muizenberg beach where I saw surfers, for the first time, in their natural habitat.  I'll try to do better.

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Driving

Up until a few days ago my wife and I have been relying on public transportation.  The cheapest way we found to move around town was by using what people call cabs.  These cabs are very different from the cabs Americans might picture when someone says "I took a cab."  These cabs operate more like buses, but with a little more hustle.  They have a route,  with semi-regular stops, but instead of keeping to a schedule, a team of people try to cram as many people in the cab as possible.  The team is made up of two people, a driver and a cashier of sorts.  The driver's job is to drive as fast as possible down the route, honk the horn to attract passengers, and stop when the cashier tells him too.  The driver also seems to have the job of angering and competing with other cabs with his driving.  The cashier obviously takes people's money, but also facilitates more business.  During stops, he whistles and runs around looking for passengers.  If a passenger is on the other side of the street he might jump in the middle of traffic and stop it so that passenger can safely j-walk across the street.  The cab might even wait for more passengers to fill the cab, which is quite annoying if you're in a hurry.  While they are driving, the cashier spends his time yelling out the side of the cab "Kip Taun" or something like that.  After a few days we realized that he was saying "Cape Town", which is the last stop on the route.  I was told that most of these people who run the cabs are from the Cape Flats area of Cape Town and that they have a very distinct accent.  These guys must be the hardest working people in Cape Town.  The best part of this whole experience is that the cabs are little Volkswagen Micro-buses and they often stuff sixteen passengers or more in the thing.  Including the two operators that is eighteen people who have been working up a sweat running around town.  Needless to say it gets a bit smelly in those things.

A few days ago we got access to a car, a nice little Mercedes-Benz hatchback.  I'm not going to say that I will miss riding in the cabs, but I will say that it was a worthwhile experience.  We've only taken the car out twice, once to the grocery store and once to the gym. We're kind of afraid to drive on the wrong side of the road in crazy traffic.  I can't wait to see more of Cape Town with the freedom of a car.  Since cab route maps were not available we only used one route.  Now we can go wherever we want.

Sunday, February 27, 2011

Hike Number 1


We have been in South Africa for a little over a week.  The week has been filled with running around conducting the business of setting up a new household, opening bank accounts, and most importantly setting up internet.  I contemplated writing about the joys of the bureaucracy here in Cape Town but thought better of it. Yesterday my wife and I took our first hike.  Luckily trails leading into Table Mountain National Park are a ten minute walk up the hill.  We walked up to the Cecil Rhodes Memorial just up the hill from the University of Cape Town.  We then continued our hike from there up a random trail.  The trail we took initially went up a nice incline following a spur.  We came to a t-intersection at what must have been an old military road leading up to an old military post I saw on the map.  We continued on the road heading north and ran into quite a few mountain bike riders.  I can’t wait till our stuff gets here.  On our right was the city of Cape Town and on our left was some of the most beautiful country I have seen in a while.  As we walked the view of the city changed from the southern suburbs, made up of a group of neighborhoods with names like Mowbray, Rondebosch, and Clairemont, and continued until the City Bowl and the docks were in view.  We could see the new stadium, signal hill and the peak of Lions Head.  We even got to see a few Zebras through the binoculars my father in law gave us before we went on our trip.  All in all it was a wonderful hike even a novice hiker could handle.  I was surprised I didn’t see more people on it. 

Saturday, February 19, 2011

The Big Move

My last three days in the United States were hectic.  My wife and I had a very long list of things to do and we had a hard deadline.  During those last three days I slept a total of probably 8 to12 hours and we worked almost every hour which did not involve sleeping.  My wife even had an unplanned dental visit the day before we flew.  My wife was an amazing taskmaster.  She made a long list of things we would like to have done before we leave and she was intent on crossing everyone of those off her list  In the end we did not accomplish that goal but we came close.  We had new carpet installed, I finished a doorway (everything from fitting the doors, to fabricating and installing the threshold to sanding, staining and varnishing the doors), re-laying tiles on our kitchen sink, fixing two other doors, cleaning, packing last minute stuff, cutting cable, buying South African Rand, delivering our vehicles to the new owners, and a few pages of other things to include a valentine's dinner at Kingfisher, our favorite restaurant in Tucson. Those three days sucked so much that I was looking forward to the 28 hour travel time we had ahead of us.  In the end I think all the suck was worth it.  My wife, I, and our dogs all arrived safe.  We like our little house despite the many little flaws, and in spite of having to run around town for completing the simplest task are starting to really enjoy the city for its natural beauty and some of the friendly people we have met so far.   Below is a picture of the view in front of our house.


Sunday, February 13, 2011

My Mama Cried

Yesterday, when I told my mom that Sunday would be the day we take the dogs to the airport, she began to cry.  She told me that if Reeses, our dachshund, were to die in Africa that I should bring home her ashes.  Interestingly, she has shown no emotion about me leaving.  When I told her about this job, she didn't even blink.  All she has said is "allá tú es tu negocio"; roughly translated all she has said is, its your business.  I'm really going to miss being able to drop everything I'm doing to go help my mom or my sisters when they need it.  I feel like I'll be on the other side of the world and helpless.   

Monday, February 7, 2011

Everything Mostly Falling in Place

In about a week or so my wife and I will be flying to Cape Town and our little girls will be on their way sleeping in Houston Texas or Amsterdam.  It looks like everything is starting to fall into place.  The movers came in a few days ago and packed up our stuff and loaded it on a truck in less than four hours.  They did forget to pack a few things, like our wine rack, and packed things they shouldn't have, like my keys, but all in all they were very friendly and efficient people.  I guess I will not be turning in my keys to the U of A anytime soon.   

On a disappointing note, I will not be taking Helga.  She will not be going on road trips through South African wine country or taking me on adventures to the Serengeti Plain.  She will have to settle for staying in North America and be our vacation motorcycle if she is not sold in the next week.  We have been very busy and the next post just might be from Cape Town.

For a more complete story of our more recent life, you might want to visit my wife's posting at
http://withoutcomplexities.blogspot.com/2011/02/now-what.html

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Conversions and Move Date

Conversions
My wife and I are starting to look for cars.  I was really excited about buying a nice little diesel powered four wheel drive adventure vehicle but reality is setting in.   They are just too expensive in South Africa.  A Ford Ranger should not sell for the equivalent of fifty thousand dollars and I'm not paying forty thousand for a used one.  We are starting to look at passenger vehicles and we are having trouble evaluating them.  By far the biggest obstacles are all the conversions.  First we have to convert the price of the car from Rand to Dollars.  We have come to the conclusion that cars in South Africa are severely overpriced.  Once we convert currency and determine if we may be able to afford a specific vehicle, we have to convert all the other metrics used to describe a car.  The fuel economy metric is a bit tricky.  First we have to mentally convert gallons to liters, miles to kilometers, and finally miles per gallon to liters per 100 kilometers.  Performance metrics like horsepower and foot pounds of torque need to be converted to kilowatts and newton meters.  In order to accomplish all of this I might write a series of formulas in Microsoft Excel.  For now I have a web browser open for each of those conversions.  My wife and I are starting to think about buying a used BMW 3 series, hopefully a 335i.

Move Dates

Flights
Oh, it looks like we finally have a move date.  The movers will be coming soon and we only have a few more weekends in the United States.  If everything goes well, we will be flying for two days with very limited layovers.  Our dogs should leave the same day we do but arrive a day after we do since they will be spending a day at the doggy hotel in Amsterdam.  This trip should be better than my three day ordeal, with a twelve hour layover at Heathrow, I suffered through when I went down for my interview.    

The Movers
 
When I talked with the American liaison for the moving company he was very surprised that the South African company didn't contact me about moving my motorcycle.  According to him he said that he brought it up with the South African company and they said they would take care of it. This is not reassuring. Unlike him, I am not surprised that nobody contacted me about this. I can't wait till one of my questions is adequately answered from any of the agencies I have to deal with for this move.  I'm really starting to doubt whether Helga (my motorcycle) will be shipped to Africa.

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

The Five P’s

When I was a private, I was instructed to memorize several phrases or bits of information that I should know. I wrote this information on a piece of paper, laminated it, and carried this list in the cargo pocket of my right pants leg until my ETS date.  Some of these bits of information on my list might include the maximum effective range of my rifle for both a point and an area target, or the five paragraphs of an Op Order.  The phrase that this post is about was called The Five P’s.  The Five P’s is an acronym which stood for Proper Planning Prevents Poor Performance.  Failure to have this phrase or any of the other information on the list memorized would result in corrective training, more affectionately known as being smoked.


Getting smoked usually involved alternating between several exercises including, but not limited to, inclined pushups, flutter kicks, motorcycle riding, and the peeping tom.   If your leader was in a who wants to quit mood the exercises were alternated when your body could no longer perform the exercise correctly or your leader was tired of it.  Inclined pushups are the same as normal pushups except you have your feet resting on your sink, your bed, or any other available object. If you’re in formation this object might be your ruck sack or a fellow Ranger might hold up your legs while you’re getting smoked.  These types of pushups were a favorite and if the leader was not in a who wants to quit mood, you would only have to do twenty-five of them plus one for the Army, one for the 75th Ranger Regiment, one for 1st battalion, one for Alpha company, and finally one for the Airborne Ranger in the Sky for a total of thirty pushups.  In my time and squad, my Airborne Ranger in the Sky was PFC Maynard; a young man who died during the invasion of Grenada who was in my antitank squad.  If I was in 3rd battalion my Airborne Ranger in the Sky would have been one of the Rangers who died in Somalia. 

If my leader trying to find out if I wanted to quit, I might be busy until he got tired and entail alternating between the other exercises. Doing flutter kicks was usually next and was an exercise where you would lay on your back, place your hands under your rear end, extend your legs, and move them up and down, between six and twelve inches away from the floor, at a set cadence (1, 2, 3, 1; 1, 2, 3, 2; 1,2,3, 4…).  The motorcycle is a more imaginative exercise where you sit with your back against the wall, with nothing under your rear end.  To make it interesting, the person in charge of smoking you has you extend your arms so it looks like you are riding a motorcycle and tells you to make motorcycle sounds (vroom, vroom).   The person may even ask you to give it more throttle or change gears. At this point you are supposed to twist your hand to give the motorcycle more throttle or pull in the clutch with your left hand and make appropriate adjustments to your sound effects.  My personal favorite exercise was the peeping tom.  In this exercise you are playing the part of a peeping tom and the person smoking you is playing the look out.  For the start position you hang from your foot locker, door, or anything which may act as a pull up bar.  You stay in the start position with your arms extended until the lookout says “she doesn’t see you”.  When this phrase is said you perform a pull up and hold yourself up until he says “she sees you”.   This pattern alternates until the smoker gets tired.

All this is done to motivate you to memorize The Five P’s: proper planning prevents poor performance.  To this day I still remember The Five P’s, maximum effective range of my M-4, and quite a bit of information on the list I carried in my right cargo pocket.  I guess the teaching technique worked and had the side effect of getting me in shape.  When it comes to the information on that list, most of it I can’t use in my current life.  The type of rounds available for an M-3 Carl Gustav is not useful, but The Five P’s are.

I would like to implement The Five P’s when it comes to planning our move to Cape Town.  Unfortunately, I don’t have enough information to do the proper planning so I could prevent poor performance from occurring.  I can’t believe that I still don’t know when my move date is.  Every time I ask my contact in South Africa about the move date, the person replies with something like “I can’t know that until you have your work permit in hand.”  Once that is complete I ask the question again and the person replies with “That can’t be known until they have all the movers’ estimates.”  At this point, timing seems very important.  For example, in order to move our pets, we need to pay for blood tests which take weeks to complete and are only good for thirty days from the day of their blood draw.  This leaves both a narrow time-frame, two weeks, and weeks of prior planning.  In addition, these blood tests are expensive, costing us approximately $1,500.   Any misstep in planning will force us to waste this amount of money and pay for the same blood tests a second time, plus their pain and suffering.

This isn’t the first time that I have felt that there is a lack of communication about the move.  I spent the last few weeks of December stressing out, thinking I had to be ready to teach on February 8th.  The following questions were racing through my head.  Were we going to make it to Africa in time?  What will happen if we don’t make it?  Will I be violating my contract?  Will this negate my contract?  Did my wife quit her job for nothing?  I tried asking these questions and the only answer they gave me was something such as “most administrators will be off until mid-January so we can’t answer that question.”  This answer was not reassuring.   I finally just wrote the head of my department and was told that he didn’t expect me to get there until sometime mid-semester.  That information would have been nice to know when I was having mini heart attacks back in December. 

Friday, January 21, 2011

Housing Update

The god of "things will work themselves out" has been kind to my wife and I this week.  Yesterday morning I woke up at my usual time, six in the morning. The reason I wake up at this ungodly hour is to read emails originating in South Africa, and still have enough time to reply before the author of the email is done with the workday.  Well this particular morning I received some good news.  The university suddenly has a dog friendly house available for us.  The picture above is a photo of the house. My wife and I are both excited and relieved that we have a place to move to.  I actually remember seeing this little house during the interview process and remember thinking that it would be nice to live in this neighborhood.  It also makes the move with our dogs much less complicated.

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Work Permits

A big step in this move is complete.  The work permit was holding up almost everything, to include the move date.  Without that move date you can't buy plane tickets, know when to ship household goods, or when to have the dogs' blood tested.  Now we should be able to proceed and I suspect that the pace will start picking up.

Motorcycle Box- On another note I went to the local BMW shop and asked if I could buy one of the crates the motorcycles come in.  According to the mechanic I talked to all of the crates are exactly the same whether its a 650 cc dirt bike or the R1200GS adventure model. They said I could have one and that they will be leaving the crates out by the dumpsters.  I  will be picking one up later. 

Monday, January 17, 2011

Week of Dentist Appointments

Years of not going to the dentist on a regular basis has caught up with me.  My wife has decided to make up for lost time by scheduling four appointments within one week; two days of deep cleaning and two days of filling cavities.  Last Friday, I completed day one of this tetralogy and my gums and my jaw joint are still a little sore.  I'm not looking forward to the next few days, but I plan on completing my wife's plan of action.  The only reason a root canal is not on this list of procedures is because I might be moving to Cape Town before the crown is made. 

My wife questioned if I should put this information on the blog.  She said "you might gross people out" and have everyone think that my teeth are rotting out of my mouth.  If this grosses you out, I'm sorry, its just one more thing I'm doing before the big move and consider it part of preparation.  Kind of like the immunization schedule I went through during December.  I'm sure Cape Town is full of great dentists, however, the last thing I want to happen is developing a tooth problem in the first few months in South Africa.    

Why haven't I gone to the dentist in years?  Well, during the last decade I have been a student and The University of Arizona doesn't offer dental coverage.  In addition, I never liked going to the dentist.  When I was a kid my parents were poor and rarely took to me to the dentist.  On the rare occasion that I had the opportunity to sit in a dentist's chair I was already in severe pain due to a toothache.   On one of those occasions, the dentist wanted to extract a molar.  I refused to even let the man inject my gums with anesthesia let alone pull it.  To avoid having this man enter my mouth and cause pain, I offered to pull it myself.  My guess is that I wanted to have control of the pain.  He squirted some topical anesthetic and handed me some strange looking pliers and I pulled it out.  He congratulated me and told me that I might want to become a dentist.  I didn't follow his advice. 

My next memorable dentist visit happened when I was in the U.S. Army.  I was in the field when one of my wisdom teeth was causing a severe tooth ache.  It hurt and swelled up so bad that the medic decided to have me taken out of the field.  They ended up taking me to an overworked army dentist with a long line of patients.  I had already spent a week in the field before this visit and I'm sure he didn't appreciate my stench.  He did make a comment like "Army Ranger, tough guy?".  When he said this, I knew this was going to be a bad day.  He ended up pulling out my nasty wisdom tooth seconds after he injected my gums.  Needless to say, the extraction was very painful and I sat there wishing I had my M-4 and it was loaded.  The pain subsided when I was standing up, a mouth full of cotton, and my mouth was finally numbing.  I think he was a little impatient and started pulling before the pain medication really kicked in.  After this experience, I really disliked dentists and didn't want to pay for an experience I disliked unless I really had to. 

Hopefully, my new job offers good coverage and I learn to go to the dentist more regularly and prevent painful situations.

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Saying Goodbye and Vehicles

My wife and I have started saying goodbye to people we will likely not see again before we leave for Cape Town.  Yesterday we said goodbye to my sister and my niece and today we said goodbye to my wife's grandmother.  Although we might see my sister if she decides to visit, we will likely not see my wife's grandmother until we come back to the states for a visit.  It's difficult to think about how very far away we will be from our loved ones.  I truly hope this move won't be too difficult for either of us.

On another note, looking at vehicles on the internet which we might want to purchase in South Africa is both exciting and discouraging.  Currently I'm very interested in the variety of small 4X4's available with diesel engines.  Not only because they are not available in the US but because the little diesels should perform well off-road.  However, the cost of these vehicles in South Africa is discouraging.  When a Ford Ranger costs more than a full size truck, it makes me think that I will be driving a Hyundai Accent or an equivalent vehicle.  I'll be stuck in Cape Town and won't be going on safari on the weekends.    

Saturday, January 15, 2011

First Going Away Party

Today my wife and I had our first going away party.  I spent the afternoon eating steak and talking with my wife's coworkers.   For once, the conversation was not centered around work; I don't think I heard anything about clients or complaints about paperwork.  It was kind of refreshing. 

Somehow, it doesn't feel like we are really moving from Tucson.  This feeling is probably due to the fact that we still do not know when we are leaving.  We are still waiting for approval of a work permit.  Currently, our packet is at the South African Consulate General in Los Angeles and according to the administrators at UCT we should hear by Monday.  The reason for this Monday estimate is that our paperwork packet was delivered a week ago and UCT claims it takes them about a week.  I hope the Martin Luther King doesn't extend the time it takes to process our paperwork and that there are no problems with the paperwork.  Moving may have felt more real to my wife since she already quit her job and is saying good bye to them professionally.  

Friday, January 14, 2011

My Motorcycle

One of my favorite possessions is my 1995 BMW R1100GS motorcycle.  I have had dreams about riding that motorcycle in Africa for years.  This dream ranks up there with a Tierra Del Fuego ride which I have yet to go on.  Since UCT is not paying for the move of any vehicles, I assumed that I was going to have to sell her (her name is Helga).   I just talked with the second moving company who said that the cost of shipping Helga along with my household goods would not be much and that I could pay that extra cost out of my own pocket.  I'm starting to let myself get a little exited about this possibility.

Call me doctor?

On the 12th I successfully defended my dissertation, bringing me one step closer to moving to Cape Town.  In doing so, I guess I earned a new title (Dr.) and have a few more letters (PhD) to add to my name.  This day will be memorable for other reasons.  After a long morning, I then decided to volunteer for the Together We Thrive event held at The University of Arizona.  After waiting for hours, I ended up being tasked with providing information to people waiting in line to see President Obama speak at McKale (the university's basketball stadium).  Mostly, I told people what they can and cannot bring into the stadium. The line I worked on, there were two of them, was very long and probably stretched over a kilometer.  
             The interaction with so many people was both challenging and uplifting.  Most people were very nice and thankful that people volunteered and were helping out, while others wanted to argue.  The uplifting part was nice, given the sadness and disgust I felt over the previous few days.  These feelings caused by the tragedy which took place in Tucson last Saturday which will be difficult to forget.  The biggest problem I encountered was probably caused by the media saying small purses were OK to bring.  I've come to the conclusion that my idea of what a small purse might be is very different than what most women think the phrase small means when it comes to purses.  Luckily, someone over the radio gave me an objective measure of what small meant and this angered many people.  The objective measure was a compact digital camera bag.  Having to tell women who have been standing in line for a few hours that their small duffel bags they were carrying would probably prevent them from entering the stadium was not fun.  I had one old lady even curse at me while quoting the news.  I think the phrase was "I don't think you know what the f*&k you are talking about, the news said small purses were OK". How do you respond to that?
     After a long day working the lines and talking to people, I didn't even get to enter McKale.  I ended up watching the event, along with the thousands who didn't fit and instead watched from the stands of the football stadium on the Jumbo Tron. It was quite an impressive show of unity for our town.  I heard someone say that McKale seats 15,000 people.  Add that to over half of the football stadium (not counting the upper deck)  filling up, I would estimate at least twenty to thirty thousand people came to the event.   I really liked the president's speech and agree with others that it might have been one of his best yet.

I think this was a good way to spend my day. 

Monday, January 10, 2011

Work Permit

The last few days have been trying ones.  One of Tucson's congressional representatives and nineteen others were shot.  I spent a good portion of the weekend reading and watching television reports on this tragedy.  After watching the shooter's Youtube videos, I think he sounds like a paranoid schizophrenic. I really do hope Gabrielle Giffords and the rest of the wounded recover.

In an attempt to get out of this crappy mood I spent some quality time with my two nieces and my little sister.  It worked.  Today I also sent a $344 dollar cashiers check to the South African Consulate General in Los Angeles California.  I wonder how long it will take to get the permit issued?  We noticed that Etta has an abscessed tooth and will be taking her to the veterinarian on Friday.

Saturday, January 8, 2011

Dissertation Submitted and Dog Crates

I submitted my dissertation yesterday.  I wish I could say that the light is at the end of the tunnel, but there is still so much work to do.  I have to defend it next Wednesday, and I will likely have revisions to write and resubmit to the committee.  Upon final approval by the committee I still have to submit it to the University.  All this has to happen before I leave for Cape Town.  This doesn't count all the moving to South Africa related work which needs to be done.  Nevertheless, I did have a few celebratory beverages with my fellow researchers in the lab; when we ran out of beverages in the lab we continued celebrating at the Aulde Dubliner on University Avenue.  Some of the pressure has decreased as of yesterday.  Not only did I submit my dissertation, I also found out that I don't have to start teaching in early February.  The people at the University failed to mention that the department foresaw me arriving in Cape Town after the beginning of the semester and planned around that.

  The pictures below are my girls getting acclimated to their brand new travel crates.


Friday, January 7, 2011

Housing Woes

We found out the other morning that UCT does not have any pet friendly housing available.  Needless to say, my wife and I are very upset.  I waited too long to contact the person in charge of accomadations.   Now we are in an unenviable position of finding suitable housing from an ocean away or not take our dogs.  In other news, I'm scheduled to turn in my dissertation today.  Can't wait until this is finished.  I also found out that the university was not expecting me to make it in time to start teaching in February. 

Sunday, January 2, 2011

GoGo

GoGo has now been missing for two days.  My mother in law called the local dog pound and he wasn't there, and my wife and my phone number are on his collar and nobody has called us.  Even I, am starting to lose hope that he is alive and well. 

Thoughts

The last post was about the new year and it started a string of thoughts.  I just realized that the 2000's was a rather unadventurous decade for me.  Besides starting college, meeting my wife, and being accepted to graduate school, the decade was rather uneventful.  I'm sure I could have finished school a few years ago.  I guess it was rather easy to get comfortable going to school and being hypnotized by the steady rhythm of that life, get up, go to school, come home, and repeat.  Not to say that I don't consider my collegiate exploits accomplishments, not every kid growing up below the poverty line gets to go to college much less graduate school, but somehow they don't seem to count as great adventures.  This perception of not counting college as an adventurous activity is probably rooted in the idea that most people in this country of any means just expect their kids to just do that. Looking back, it seems like the last big adventure I took was in 1995 when I joined the army and served as an infantryman in the 75th Ranger Regiment.

That ended in 1999, I think I'm overdue for one. 

Saturday, January 1, 2011

Snafu #1 GoGo

We can't afford to take all three of our dogs with us, so my wife and I decided to leave the oldest  behind with her mother.  He is a seventeen year old Jack Russell Terrier and he just left for his new home in New Mexico two days ago.  Unfortunately, we found out that he broke out of his new home and is now lost.  I really hope he survives the cold winter night and is found tomorrow.

Good luck buddy!

GoGo, before he left to New Mexico.

January 1, 2011

A new year bigins, and it should be an interesting one for me and my family.  In less than two weeks I defend my dissertation, by the end of the month we should be moving to Cape Town, South Africa, and in early February I should start teaching at the University of Cape Town.  To be honest, I am simultaneously excited and frightened about what the coming year might hold for me and my family. 

I'll keep you posted.